Tamari is a uniquely delicious, versatile seasoning that adds immeasurably to the flavor of soups, sauces, vegetables, dips, and entrées. Making tamari is an expensive, time-consuming process. However, because tamari is made with 100 percent whole soybeans, it is very concentrated, so a little goes a long way. The Yaemon's special koji drying process, described earlier, further concentrates the flavor. Mitoku's tamari's staying power during cooking is incredible. Reduce the amount of soy sauce called for in a recipe by about 25 percent when cooking with Mitoku tamari.

Unlike shoyu, which derives much of its flavor from the natural alcohol produced by wheat fermentation, tamari's rich flavor comes from an abundance of amino acids, which are derived from soy protein. Because amino acids are not volatile, they don't evaporate the way alcohol does. This makes tamari the better soy sauce to choose when lengthy cooking is required. Tamari also contains more flavor-intensifying glutamic acid than shoyu. Bland foods like shiitake mushrooms and tofu are enhanced when simmered in a seasoned liquid. For dishes that require this long-simmering process, tamari is the preferred seasoning.

You may have noticed that alcohol is listed as an ingredient in new domestic brands of soy sauce. Concentrated ethyl alcohol is sometimes used as a soy-sauce preservative. According to Japanese fermentation experts, traditional shoyu made with koji that contains 50 percent wheat and 50 percent whole soybeans produces enough alcohol from wheat fermentation (about 2.5 percent) to inhibit the growth of yeast. Traditional tamari, however, contains no wheat and produces only about 0.1 percent natural alcohol. To prevent the growth of yeast after the bottle is opened, some tamari producers add concentrated ethyl alcohol before packaging.

Yaemon Mitoku tamari contains no added ethyl alcohol. At great expense, the Yaemon family adds a little of Japan's finest rice brandy, Mikawa mirin to their tamari. Mikawa mirin is made by the same traditional koji process as Mansan tamari. The addition of mirin, not only prevents the growth of yeast, but actually contributes to the aroma and deep, rich taste of Mansan tamari.

New England Boiled Dinner Serves 3 Seitan replaces corned beef in this classic one-pot meal. The ultimate in simplicity, yet wholesome and eye-appealing, New England Boiled Dinner takes only 10 minutes to prepare and about 20 minutes to cook. It is cooked and served in a large cast iron or stainless steel frying pan. Vary the vegetables according to season and availability, but keep in mind an attractive variety of colors and add ingredients appropriately so everything is finished cooking at the same time. 2 cups spring water or unsalted stock 4-inch piece of Mitoku Hidaka Wild Kombu 2 tablespoons Mitoku Yaemon Tamari 1 bay leaf, broken into 2-3 pieces pinch rosemary 1/2 large onion, cut into 6 wedges 3 carrots, cut into bite-sized chunks 1/4 head cabbage, cut into 3-4 wedges 12 mushrooms, whole several 1/2-inch-thick slices Mitoku Seitan 3 1-inch wedges buttercup squash 12 broccoli flowerets In a large frying pan bring the water, kombu, tamari and herbs to a boil. Place the onion, carrots, cabbage, mushrooms and seitan in the pan, arranging them so each variety is separate and colors are balanced. Cover and simmer 5 minutes, then add squash and simmer until vegetables are nearly tender (about 10 minutes more). Add broccoli and simmer until it is tender-crisp (about 5 minutes). Uncover and serve immediately by placing it in the center of the table.

Serves 4

Burdock root has long been prized in the Orient for its pleasant, crunchy texture and earthy flavor, as well as for its medicinal qualities. It is highly regarded in Oriental medicine as a blood purifier.

This adaptation of a traditional Japanese recipe is our family's favorite way to enjoy burdock, especially during the late fall and winter months.

3 packages Mitoku Dried Burdock Root, reconstituted
2 large carrots, cut into julienne strips
2-3 teaspoons Mitoku Virgin or Toasted Sesame Oil
1/4 teaspoon Ishigaki Washed Sea Salt
2 tablespoons Mitoku Mikawa Mirin
1 tablespoon Mitoku Yaemon Tamari
Pinch cayenne pepper or Japanese 7-spice (optional)

Heat oil in a frying pan or heavy saucepan. Add drained burdock, and sauté over medium heat for several minutes. Add water, if necessary, to prevent scorching. Cover and cook over medium-low heat 10-15 minutes, or until burdock is nearly tender. Add carrots, salt, and one tablespoon mirin. Sauté briefly. Cover and let cook. Check often to be sure vegetables are not sticking to the bottom of the pan.

When the liquid in the skillet is absorbed, add one tablespoon tamari, another tablespoon mirin, and pinch of cayenne pepper or Japanese 7-spice (if desired). Toss, cover, and cook briefly until tender, adding 2 tablespoons water if necessary. Transfer to a bowl and serve hot.

Serves 3-4

The use of tamari in marinating takes advantage of its qualities as both flavor enhancer and tenderizer.

1 1/3 pounds fresh snapper fillets (can substitute cod, sole, haddock, or grouper)
Pinch cayenne pepper (optional)
3-4 lemon wedges
Parsley sprigs or watercress for garnish

Marinade:

2 tablespoons Mitoku Yaemon Tamari
1/4 cup dry white wine or sake
1 tablespoon Mitoku Virgin Sesame Oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 clove garlic, finely minced
1 teaspoon peeled and finely grated ginger

Rinse fish under cold running water, then pat dry. Combine marinade ingredients in a pie plate or baking pan. Lay fish in marinade, then turn over. (This coats the top of fillets while other side is marinating.) If desired, lightly sprinkle with cayenne. Marinate 15 minutes, then turn over. Sprinkle with a little more cayenne (if using) and marinate 15 minutes more. Occasionally spoon marinade over top of fish.

Preheat broiler. Remove fish from the marinade and place on oiled baking sheet. Reserve marinade. Broil fish on one side about 5 minutes. Turn fish, spoon a little marinade on top, and broil about 3 minutes more. (Broiling time will vary according to thickness of fish. If still translucent at the center, cook a few minutes more and check again.) Serve hot. If desired, sprinkle teaspoon or two of marinade over each serving. Garnish with lemon wedge and sprig of parsley or watercress.

Serves 4

This simple dish works equally well with butternut squash or Hokkaido pumpkin.

3-inch piece Mitoku Hidaka Wild Kombu
1 small or 1/2 large buttercup squash, seeded and cut into bite-sized chunks
Spring water
Pinch Ishigaki Washed Sea Salt
1-2 teaspoons Mitoku Yaemon Tamari

Place kombu in the bottom of a medium-sized saucepan, top with squash chunks, add water to almost cover, and bring to a simmer. Add salt and tamari, and simmer gently until chunks are tender. Remove squash from broth with slotted spoon and serve.